Two Weeks in Hong Kong and Taiwan

As mentioned in my Vietnam blog, we originally intended to stay longer, but a visa mishap led us to make new plans. After careful consideration, including researching flight costs, we opted to spend one week in Hong Kong and Taiwan each, before moving on to our next destination in Southeast Asia. This unexpected turn of events presented us with the perfect opportunity to visit two places that had long been on our bucket list!

Hong Kong

Hong Kong is a vibrant city located on the southeastern coast of China. It boasts a unique blend of urban sophistication and natural beauty. Hong Kong is known for its stunning skyline, with towering skyscrapers juxtaposed against the backdrop of lush green mountains and picturesque harbors. The city is made up of Hong Kong Island, Kowloon Peninsula, the New Territories, and numerous outlying islands. Its strategic location as a major international financial and trading hub has made it a bustling metropolis attracting people from all over the world.

Historically, Hong Kong has a fascinating past shaped by different influences. From ancient times, Hong Kong was inhabited by indigenous communities, and it did not hold significant prominence until the 19th century when it became a British colony during the Opium Wars. Under British rule, Hong Kong developed into a major trading port and played a significant role in regional commerce. In 1997, sovereignty over Hong Kong was transferred back to China (long story of how short-sighted the British where when they agreed to this lease), and it became a Special Administrative Region with a high degree of autonomy under the “one country, two systems” principle. This arrangement has allowed Hong Kong to maintain its distinct legal, economic, and social systems, while also being part of China. The city has faced its share of challenges and protests in recent years, reflecting the complexities of its unique status and the aspirations of its people. Despite these challenges, Hong Kong remains a vibrant and dynamic city, known for its international outlook, cultural diversity, and business opportunities.

The first impression I had of Hong Kong was that it is a Chinese New York City on steroids, with its towering skyscrapers reaching for the heavens and a bustling energy that surpassed even the Big Apple. The streets were filled with purposeful pedestrians, mirroring the fast-paced hustle and bustle of New York City. Yet, Hong Kong had its own amplified dynamism, as if it had ingested a dose of adrenaline. The fusion of Chinese and Western influences was evident in the seamless blend of architectural styles and the tantalizing aroma of Cantonese cuisine that permeated the air.

As a tourist destination, Hong Kong offers a wealth of attractions and experiences. From exploring its bustling street markets, such as Mong Kok and Temple Street night markets, to visiting iconic landmarks like Victoria Peak and Avenue of Stars, there is something for everyone. Hong Kong’s vibrant food scene is also a major draw, with a wide array of culinary delights ranging from local street food to Michelin-starred restaurants. Moreover, the city is known for its world-class shopping, from high-end luxury brands to bargain finds in the vibrant shopping districts. With its unique blend of modernity and tradition, Hong Kong offers a captivating experience that is sure to leave visitors with lasting memories.

Hong Kong has one of the most expensive real estate markets in the world, so most people live in tiny apartments, or even share apartments (some even live in so-called cage homes). As a tourist, that means that you have to pay a lot for a tiny place, and that’s just what we did. Apart from the accommodation expenses, Hong Kong is just moderately expensive, as the cost of food and transportation is not too high. Hong Kong is so well-connected that as long as you are close to a metro stop, you can easily go anywhere within a reasonable amount of time. More on that later.

I had a blast doing photography in Hong Kong (you can see my shots on my Instagram page), as the the city’s iconic skyline, with its towering skyscrapers and neon-lit streets, provides a stunning backdrop for urban photography. From the bustling streets of Mong Kok to the serene landscapes of Victoria Peak, and towering public “monster” apartment buildings, Hong Kong presents a rich tapestry of contrasting scenes. The city’s unique blend of traditional Chinese culture and modern architecture creates a captivating juxtaposition, making it a treasure trove for capturing striking images. Some of the places we really liked visiting were:

• Mong Kok neighborhood: This is where our hotel was, and we ventured out both during the day and evening, and we loved the markets, lively street scene, and vibrant neon signs during the evening. It’s a pity that Hong Kong has removed most of its neon signs (for good reasons though). Some are replaced by LED lights, but most are gone for good. They made surreal subjects for night photography, as glorified by movies like Blade Runner.
• Victoria Peak: We took a one-hour scenic bus ride to reach the summit and chose the steep and fast tram for our descent. Standing atop, we were treated to breathtaking vistas of Hong Kong’s magnificent cityscape, dominated by towering skyscrapers. This particular sight is widely regarded as one of the most iconic images of Hong Kong, particularly when illuminated by the city lights after sunset.
• Hong Kong’s so-called estates: They are colossal residential buildings that serve as towering symbols of the city’s unique urban landscape. These mammoth structures, often reaching staggering heights, with dated architecture, stand as testaments to Hong Kong’s high population density and the need for efficient land use in a limited space. Housing thousands of residents within their concrete walls, these estates are a common sight across the city, forming an integral part of its skyline. With their uniform architecture and repetitive patterns, they create a sense of order amidst the bustling chaos of Hong Kong, and are often great subjects for photography.
• Chinese temples: We visited two temples while there, and it was interesting to see the distinct Chinese architecture, and praying rituals. As you step into these temples, the first thing you notice is the thick smoke from burning loads of incense sticks and prayer papers, creating a serene and mystical atmosphere. The devotees, from all walks of life, engage in a variety of rituals. They kneel before ornate altars, their hands clasped in prayer, as they seek blessings from the deities. The rhythmic chants of Buddhist or Taoist scriptures mingle with the murmurs of whispered prayers. One intriguing ritual involves reading one’s fortune by shaking a cylindrical container filled with numbered sticks until one falls out. The corresponding fortune is then interpreted, offering guidance and insight into one’s path. While in Hong Kong, we unexpectedly encountered two French tourists whom we had previously seen at our hotel in Hoi An, Vietnam. What a coincidence! Although we hadn’t interacted in Hoi An, we immediately recognized each other and engaged in conversation, which led us to grab a coffee together afterwards, and chat about our previous and upcoming adventures. I love meeting and chatting with other like-minded world travelers and exchanging stories and tips about our travels!

We spent 6 full days to explore Hong Kong, and it was great for us as we slowed down, and had some time for our son to play his heart out in some indoor playgrounds, but for others, maybe 3-4 days is plenty to visit most of what Hong Kong has to offer. One could also take some day-trips to Macau or Shenzen, or do hiking around the islands, and visit beaches. Overall, I was pleasantly surprised by how much I liked Hong Kong, and it reminded me of the first time I visited NYC.

Taiwan

The history of Taiwan is marked by waves of migration, colonization, and geopolitical shifts. One might think that Taiwan has always been populated by Chinese people, but that couldn’t be further from truth. Originally inhabited by Austronesian peoples, Taiwan’s history was dramatically altered with the arrival of the Dutch in the 17th century, followed by the Spanish and then the Ming loyalists from Mainland China. Qing Dynasty China formally incorporated Taiwan in the late 17th century, but in the late 19th century, Taiwan came under Japanese rule after the First Sino-Japanese War. Japan’s control lasted until the end of World War II, when Taiwan was handed back to the Republic of China (ROC). In 1949, following the Chinese Civil War, the ROC government retreated to Taiwan, leading to the split between the People’s Republic of China (PRC) on the mainland and the ROC governing Taiwan. Taiwan has since developed into a vibrant democracy with a rich cultural heritage, distinct from mainland China.

We spent a week in Taipei, exploring iconic landmarks such as the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, Taipei 101 skyscraper, and did the Elephant Mountain hike to get a good view of Taipei 101, which used to be the tallest building in the world until 2004. We also visited National Taiwan Museum, which interestingly seems to put a lot of emphasis on distinct history of Taiwan than being a part of China. Unfortunately, Taipei welcomed us with cold and rainy weather, much like we’re used to in Seattle, which encouraged us to unwind and let our son enjoy some playtime. Fortunately, the sun finally emerged on our last day, prompting us to embark on a day trip to the stunning Shifen Waterfall and the picturesque town of Jiufen, rumored to have inspired scenes from the beloved film Spirited Away. However, Jiufen was bustling with tourists, dampening our experience due to the crowds. Considering it was the low season and a weekday, we could only imagine how crowded it might be during high season.

Our fascination with Taiwan had begun long before this trip, sparked by our love for Taiwanese cuisine, introduced to us by the famous Taiwanese chain restaurant, Din Tai Fung. This renowned restaurant chain offers a delectable array of Taiwanese dishes, most notably their signature dumplings. Naturally, we couldn’t resist visiting Din Tai Fung in Taiwan, and the food was as sumptuous as we expected. While the menu was similar to the ones in the US, it had its own unique offerings too.

Taipei’s night markets are vibrant and bustling, offering a sensory feast of sights, sounds, and flavors. These markets, such as Shilin Night Market and Raohe Street Night Market, are renowned for their diverse selection of street food, from the iconic stinky tofu to mouthwatering grilled squid and colorful shaved ice desserts. I tried stinky tofu, so you don’t have to. It doesn’t taste much, but as the name implies, the smell is wildly stinky and pungent. The night markets are also much cleaner than the ones in Thailand, which is also pretty famous for its bustling and vibrant night markets.

The other place we loved visiting in Taipei was the Longshan Temple, which captivated us with its intricate architecture and serene atmosphere, offering a glimpse into Taiwan’s rich cultural heritage. The temple is unique in that it houses both Buddhist and Taoist deities, reflecting the harmonious coexistence of these two religions in Taiwanese culture. At Longshan Temple, we observed worshippers engaging in various forms of prayer, including burning incense, bowing, and making offerings. One particularly intriguing practice we noticed was the use of Jiaobei, or moon blocks, to seek answers from the gods. Worshippers would hold a pair of blocks shaped like crescents, hold them together, ask a question, and then drop the blocks. Depending on how the blocks landed, the answer was interpreted as positive, negative, or try again. There were also some sticks with a number on them that they would pick randomly, confirm with the god if that’s really the number he intended using the moon blocks, and then pick a piece of paper from a cabinet based on the number, with guidance and predictions on how future holds for that person.

Finally, one thing we loved in Taipei - even more so than in Hong Kong - was shopping! We are not big shoppers, and we didn’t buy anything really, but we had a lot of fun walking around specialty stores that sell many variations of small things that you never thought you might need, but now you do! From quirky stationery to unique gadgets, Taipei’s stores offered an array of fascinating items. Each shop seemed to hide a treasure trove of useful, yet unexpected, finds. Even though we didn’t make any purchases, the experience of exploring these eclectic stores was truly delightful.

Airbnb drama

In Taipei, we got an Airbnb in the old part of the city to be close to some attractions. The place met most of our needs, but we had a few issues with it like being noisy, and a bathroom that clogged a few times. But what made this stay a drama was the when I saw a security camera visibly installed in the living room. I thought the host uses it to monitor the place when it is empty, so I just unplugged it. Then the host reached out to me asking whether I have turned off the camera, and I should turn it on, as it is there to make sure guest follow the rules, and do not bring extra people in.

I was shocked that this is even a thing! It turns out this is totally fine by Airbnb, as long as the camera is declared in the listing (in this case it was mentioned in the additional rules deep down in the listing, which I had not read), and it is not in a “private area” like a bedroom or bathroom. This is so creepy. Imagine that you are resting in the living room, and the host is watching and recording you with a camera! I pushed back that I need to check with Airbnb that a living room is also a private area, when you book the whole place. Unfortunately, Airbnb’s customer service outright sucks, and it took me two days to get a proper response from them, and sadly they backed the host. The host however, did not push further to turn on the camera, and we didn’t.

Moral of the story: 1) Airbnb’s policy and customer service suck, and 2) always read all the rules and house manuals, as well as the description and all review of a place before booking.

Misadventures of our flight

If the Airbnb drama wasn’t enough on its own, we also had a nail-biter flight to our next destination. Our VietJet flight from Taipei with a connection in Hanoi was delayed, reducing our layover time to just 30 minutes. We faced a tough choice before boarding our first flight: risk missing the connection, and stay in the airport for 24 hours (!) or stay in Taipei overnight at our own expense. Both of these bad options were because VietJet basically can waive its hands saying we are a “low-cost airline”, even if the problem is of their own making. At the last minute and despite the odds, we decided to risk it.

Arriving in Hanoi with just 30 minutes to spare, we were distressed to find out that we had to take a bus to reach the arrival hall. After we got off the bus, we decided to dash for it, so I carried all luggage, and my wife carried our son, and we ran. Amidst the chaos, our son, upset that he couldn’t carry his luggage, began crying loudly and running after me! Could it get worse? Yes indeed, we had to go through security check! We hurried through security, cut in line, and sprinted to our gate, only to find it empty except for a few smiling staff members who had been waiting for us. And again, our son was crying out loud all the time… if only it had been filmed, the whole ordeal would have been funny and cringeworthy to watch, at the same time!

Boarding the plane, I worried that our luggage might not make it in time due to the tight connection. However, a quick check with my AirTag revealed that our bags were loaded onto our plane. Finally, we could relax and enjoy the rest of our flight to Siem Reap.

Conclusion

Traveling is fraught with the possibility of things going wrong, in many different ways. On the flip side, traveling also provides unique opportunities to run into new experiences. Staying home, however, provides little chances for either of them. If I put my “machine learning” hat on, we can say that travel is “high variance”, while staying home is “low variance”. Not sure how “bias” fits into this analogy. Maybe staying home could be considered “high bias” because it involves a familiar environment with predictable outcomes, limiting exposure to new ideas and experiences. On the other hand, traveling is “low bias” because it exposes you to a wide range of diverse and unpredictable experiences, challenging preconceived notions and broadening your perspective. Just a thought!

We spent two amazing weeks in Hong Kong and Taipei, and we couldn’t have spent this time better. Both offered amazing experiences: Hong Kong and Taipei were paradises for photography, and food, respectively. They were also both very child-friendly destinations, with world-class public transportation systems that made traveling around like a breeze. Our next destination is Siem Reap in Cambodia, where we are going to visit marvelous ruins of Angkor. Stay tuned!

FAQ

Which one had better public transportation system?

Moving around in Hong Kong is easy thanks to the world-class public transportation system. The buses and subways (MTR) are well-connected, fast, and convenient. When visiting Hong Kong, you certainly should get the Octopus Card to easily tap in and out to pay for the transit, but even better is to use the “Octopus for Tourists” app and use your NFC-enabled smartphone or watch. It is super convenient. The only downside is that you pay in your own currency, which means you get a slightly less favorable conversion rate, but I think it’s worth it for the comfort.

Taipei is basically the same story with their own version of MTR, and the so-called EasyCard. However, a few differences: 1) We actually used more buses Taipei than the MTR, whereas in Hong Kong, we used MTR more, 2) Easy Card is only available as a physical card, and can be only loaded with cash, and 3) in Taipei, you have to tap in and out on buses, whereas in Hong Kong, you only tap in. For these reasons, I would give the edge to Hong Kong’s public transportation.

But the most convenient public transportation system in the world when it comes to payment system is, in my opinion, London, though it is not the most modern or the cleanest. London’s tube is not only efficient and well-connected, but it also has the best payment system possible, as I explained in my London travel blog. All you have to do is to tap in and out using your credit card, or phone/watch, and you’re good! They even automatically cap your daily transportation expenditure by tracking your daily travel costs, and charging you at the end of the day, which is brilliant. I wish all public transportation systems copy this method.

Which one had better food?

Well, this one is easy, and it would go to Taiwan. Food in Hong Kong and Taiwan are pretty similar, but Taiwanese food is more influential, and I would say tastier. Also, the night markets in Taipei are a big deal in Taiwan, but not so much in Hong Kong.

How is traveling with a toddler in these cities?

Basically, if you can travel with your kids in a large city, like London or New York, you won’t have any problem traveling in Taipei or Hong Kong either. Both have great public transportation, and are quite stroller friendly, though we didn’t have one.

How is long-term traveling experience with a toddler?

Well, this is a big topic on its own, but I have to say the big difference between a week or two-long vacation and long-term travel is that you can’t be just go go go. When you have 1 week off, you plan everything to efficiently visit all places of interest. Your child is probably pretty excited by the new sights and sounds for some time too. But when you travel long-term, you can’t keep doing that every single day, especially with a toddler. We deliberately stay longer than what a place needs, like a week instead of 4 days, to give ourselves some down times and slow days. We also don’t visit every single tourist attraction, and only do a handful of places during our visit. Slowing down allows our son to have his play time, and also factor in days that don’t go as planned. Having said that, there is no denying that we dearly miss daycare!