We continue our SE Asia trip by visiting Kuala Lumpur and Singapore for 6 and 4 days, respectively. Malaysia and Singapore have a lot in common, which I’m going to touch on later, but there also have important differences.

Overview of Malaysia

Before I travel to a new country, I make it a point to delve into its geography and history. These aspects often intertwine, and Malaysia beautifully exemplifies this.

Malaysia’s history can be roughly divided to 4 main parts: Before Islam, Islamic period, colonization by European powers, and independence. Before the arrival of Islam, the region that is now Malaysia was inhabited by indigenous peoples who practiced animism and traditional beliefs. This pre-Islam period saw the emergence of early kingdoms such as Langkasuka and Srivijaya, which were centers of trade and culture. These kingdoms flourished due to their strategic location along important trade routes, connecting the region to the wider world.

In contrast to regions like the Middle East or Africa, where Islam often spread through conquest, Malaysia (along with other parts of Southeast Asia) saw the introduction of Islam by Arab and Indian traders in the 14th century. Islam spread rapidly, influencing the culture, society, and governance of the region. The rise of Islamic sultanates, such as Malacca and Johor, marked this period, with these sultanates becoming powerful political and economic entities. Islamic values and principles became deeply embedded in Malay society, shaping its identity and institutions to this day.

The colonization of Malaysia by European powers began in the 16th century, with the Portuguese, Dutch, and British establishing footholds in the region. The British eventually gained control over most of Malaysia, incorporating it into their empire as the Straits Settlements and Federated Malay States. Colonial rule brought significant changes to Malaysia, including the introduction of modern infrastructure, education, and administration. However, it also led to the exploitation of natural resources and the marginalization of the local population.

Malaysia gained independence from British rule on August 31, 1957, marking a new chapter in its history. The country’s first Prime Minister led the negotiations for independence, culminating in the formation of the Federation of Malaya. This event was a significant milestone for Malaysia, symbolizing its emergence as a sovereign nation. In 1963, the Federation of Malaya joined with Singapore, Sabah, and Sarawak to form Malaysia, further expanding its territory and diversity. However, only two years later in 1965, mostly due to racial conflicts and differences in policies, Malaysia “expelled” Singapore from the federation, which is how Singapore became a sovereign country.

Malaysia is a diverse nation with a population that includes Malays (about 60%), Chinese (about 23%), Indians (about 7%), and indigenous groups (about 11%), each contributing to its cultural mosaic. Islam is the predominant religion, practiced by around 61% of the population, but Buddhism (about 20%), Hinduism (about 6%), and Christianity (about 9%) are also significant. This diversity adds vibrancy to Malaysian society while presenting challenges that the country navigates through policies promoting national unity and harmony.

As alluded earlier, Malaysia’s history basically explains its geography. Malaysia comprises of Peninsular Malaysia and Malaysian Borneo, and this is directly due to its colonial history, particularly under British rule. Basically what’s currently Malaysia were all the states that were under the British rule in this region, with the notable exception of Singapore that was expelled, and Brunei that decided to not join the federation. That’s why the island of Borneo is divided between three countries: The part that was under the British rule joined Malaysia, except Brunei as mentioned, and the part that was under Dutch rule, joined Indonesia. Fun fact, island of Borneo is the only island that is divided between three countries.

One more interesting fact about Malaysia is that it is an “elective constitutional monarchy”. This means that the country has a monarch as the head of state who is elected among the hereditary rulers of the nine Malay states for a five-year term. The election is done through anonymous voting among these rulers, and not by popular vote. Despite being the head of state, the monarch’s role is mainly ceremonial and symbolic. The country’s actual governance is led by a Prime Minister, who serves as the head of government.

Our Experience in Kuala Lumpur

KL, the capital of Malaysia, is one of the main hubs in SE Asia, so when touring around, you will most likely find your way there. There is a lot to do in KL, and we certainly enjoyed the cuisine and sightseeing for a few days. Our trip coincided with the beginning of Ramadan, which is the months that Muslims fast during the day and break fast by sunset, and as Malaysia is a majority Muslim country, you can certainly see how the city transforms during this month. Most interestingly, they erect Ramadan markets that are most active before sunset, where people come over to buy food and drinks for breaking fast. The mosques also serve food for those who fast, and people sit on the floor along long strips of table cloth, and break fast together. Along that note, there are multiple notable mosques in KL that are worth visiting, just note that even as a guy, they make you where some sort of skirt, if you are wearing shorts - which was quite amusing to my wife!

One of the main attractions in KL is the Petronas Twin Towers, which used to be the tallest buildings in the world from 1998 to 2004, losing the title to Taipei 101. In my opinion, they are one of the most beautiful skyscrapers in the world, especially at night when they are tastefully lit. There is a also a mall, a park, and many other amenities around them, which are worth visiting.

Malaysia is a truly multicultural country: About 60% are Muslim, while the rest are Buddhists, Christians, and Hindus. There are mosques, Chinese temples, and Indian temples all over, sometimes in each other’s neighborhood (like there is this colorful South Indian temple right in Chinatown across a Chinese temple). As a tourist, that means you get a lot of good food! There is Malay food, of course, but also Chinese, Indian, and different fusion versions. Enough to say that no matter your predilection, you can find some yummy food here!

One of the top attractions in KL is Batu Caves, which is a short Grab ride from the center. Surprisingly, the Batu Caves were discovered only over 150 years ago, and it became a site of worship in 1891 when the first temple was built inside the caves. The impressive 42.7-meter-tall golden statue of Lord Murugan was erected in 2006, adding to the site’s allure. The caves, with the main Cathedral Cave standing 100 meters high, feature a series of Hindu shrines and temples, including the Temple Cave, which is one of the largest and most popular temples outside of India. The site is also home to a large population of macaque monkeys, adding to the lively and unique atmosphere of Batu Caves.

Some tips about traveling in Malaysia:

Grab, which started in Malaysia, is really cheap there, and we used it extensively to get around in KL. A trip to/from the airport which takes one hour or so only costs $15.
Similarly, accommodation is pretty reasonable in KL, and you get a lot of bang for your bucks (unlike Singapore).
The traffic can be pretty bad, especially during rush hours.
As a former British colony, they drive on the left side, and use the UK-type power outlets, so do bring an adaptor.
It is always hot and humid in KL, and it rains frequently in the afternoon. One day, we got stuck outside for half an hour due to heavy downpour. It is best to bring umbrellas with you when visiting KL.
Malaysia has two seasons: Dry and wet, and that depends on the time of the year, and the location.
For authentic Chinese and Indian cuisine, you can head to Chinatown and Little India neighborhoods.
Most Malaysians speak good English, so we had no issue communicating.
We didn’t need cash much, except for street food. Most places accept credit cards.

Overview of Singapore

Singapore is small city state at the bottom of the Peninsular Malaysia with a population of around 6 million people. As discussed in the overview of Malaysia, the history of Malaysia and Singapore was basically the same until 1965. The big difference between the two prior to that was the racial composition, where in Singapore the majority were Chinese descent.

Independence from Malaysia marked a significant turning point in Singapore’s history. On August 9, 1965, Singapore officially became an independent and sovereign nation, after being kicked out of the federation by Malaysia’s parliament. At the dawn of its independence, Singapore faced significant economic and societal challenges. The country had limited natural resources and a small domestic market, making it heavily reliant on trade and foreign investments. Unemployment was high, and there was a lack of educated and skilled manpower and industrial infrastructure. Moreover, Singapore had to contend with social unrest, racial tensions, and a housing shortage exacerbated by a rapidly growing population.

To address these challenges, the Singaporean government under Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew (more on him later) implemented a series of bold and pragmatic policies, including industrialization efforts to diversify the economy, investments in education and training to develop a skilled workforce, and the implementation of public housing and healthcare programs to improve living standards for all Singaporeans. Singapore’s post-independence era has been characterized by rapid economic growth and modernization. Through careful planning and sound economic policies, Singapore transformed itself from a developing country into one of the world’s most prosperous nations. Key factors contributing to its success include a strong focus on education, efficient governance, strategic investments in infrastructure, and a business-friendly environment. Today, Singapore is known for its high standard of living, world-class infrastructure, and vibrant economy, making it a model of success for many nations around the world.

Lee Kuan Yew

Lee Kuan Yew (1923-2015) was the first Prime Minister of Singapore and is widely regarded as the founding father of modern Singapore. He played a crucial role in transforming Singapore from a small, underdeveloped British colony into a prosperous and dynamic city-state. Lee Kuan Yew’s leadership was characterized by his pragmatic and disciplined approach to governance, as well as his strong emphasis on economic development, social cohesion, and racial harmony.

Lee Kuan Yew was known for his strong character and unwavering commitment to his principles. He inspired Singaporeans to work hard and uphold high ethical standards through his own example of dedication and integrity. Lee Kuan Yew’s leadership was marked by his willingness to make tough and courageous decisions, even when they were unpopular. He believed in the importance of long-term planning and was not afraid to implement policies that he believed would benefit Singapore in the long run, even if they faced opposition in the short term.

After serving as Prime Minister from 1959 to 1990, Lee Kuan Yew stepped down from the office but remained influential in Singaporean politics as Senior Minister and later Minister Mentor. He continued to play an active role in shaping Singapore’s policies and offering guidance to successive generations of leaders. Even after his formal retirement from politics, Lee Kuan Yew remained a prominent figure on the international stage, sought after for his insights on geopolitics, economics, and governance. He authored several books and articles, further cementing his reputation as a leading thinker and statesman.

Lee Kuan Yew’s influence extended far beyond Singapore, and he was highly respected by world leaders for his wisdom, foresight, and leadership. He was often consulted on matters of global significance and was admired for his role in transforming Singapore into a prosperous and successful nation. His passing in 2015 was met with an outpouring of tributes from leaders around the world, highlighting the respect and admiration he commanded on the global stage.

Our Experience in Singapore

We took a short flight from KL to Singapore, and arrived at the Changi Airport, which is highly regarded as the best airport in the world. Sightseeing in Singapore starts from the airport! One of the must-see attractions in Singapore is the Jewel mall that is seamlessly integrated with the airport terminals. Jewel features a stunning indoor waterfall, known as the Rain Vortex, which is the tallest indoor waterfall in the world. The waterfall cascades from a height of 40 meters, surrounded by lush greenery, creating a breathtaking natural spectacle within the airport complex.

Singapore is one of the most expensive destinations in the world. Our hotel cost way more than any other place in our trip so far, so we didn’t want to stay for too long. Moreover, any paid attraction was also pretty expensive. Eating out, however, doesn’t need to be too expensive, if you stick with hawker centers, or food courts. Overall, Singapore is a rich place, and the prices definitely reflect that. One of the interesting facts about Singapore is that it has the highest taxes on cars in the world. For a basic sedan like a Honda Civic, you end up paying around $100,000, which is absolutely bonkers! This is probably to dissuade people from owning cars, since Singapore is a dense city. Instead, they have heavily invested in public transportation, which is one of the bests in the world, and a quite affordable one too.

Singapore is full of iconic modern buildings and structures, from the famous Marine Bay Sands to the futuristic Gardens by the Bay. The city-state’s skyline is a testament to its innovative architecture and urban planning, blending seamlessly with its lush greenery and vibrant cultural scene. Singapore’s skyline is also punctuated by the towering Singapore Flyer, the world’s largest observation wheel, offering breathtaking views of the city and beyond. The Helix Bridge, with its distinctive double-helix structure, is another architectural marvel, providing a picturesque walkway over the Singapore River. Additionally, the ArtScience Museum, shaped like a lotus flower, showcases a unique blend of art, science, design, and technology. Overall, the Singaporeans have put a lot of effort into building amazingly modern marvels all around the city, showcasing their creativity, innovation, and dedication to creating a unique urban landscape that reflects their forward-thinking mindset.

Gardens by the Bay in Singapore is a must-see attraction that warrants a full day of exploration. Featuring towering Supertrees, enormous biodomes, and captivating light displays, this marvel of human creativity and natural beauty offers a unique experience. The gardens boast a rich diversity of flora from around the globe, creating a tranquil escape from the urban hustle. While entrance to the Supertrees is free, the highlight is the breathtaking light show after dusk. Among the attractions, the Cloud Forest stands out—an iconic glass dome visible from afar. Inside, spiral walkways lead to one of the world’s tallest indoor waterfalls, cascading from over 30 meters above. If you’ve seen the Amazon Sphere in Seattle, the Cloud Forest is a larger and more impressive version of that!

We also visited the ArtScience Museum in Singapore, which showcases a captivating blend of art, science, culture, and technology. The museum features innovative exhibitions that engage visitors of all ages, making it a perfect destination for families and art enthusiasts alike. One of the most memorable exhibits was “Future World: Where Art Meets Science,” an immersive digital playground created in collaboration with teamLab, a renowned Japanese art collective. This interactive exhibit uses cutting-edge technology to create stunning digital art installations that respond to human interaction, creating a truly magical experience. Another highlight was “Crystal Universe,” a mesmerizing installation featuring more than 60,000 LED lights that change color and form patterns, creating a breathtaking visual spectacle, which is difficult to capture in photos, but nevertheless looks stunning. The museum’s striking lotus-inspired architecture adds to its allure, making it a must-visit destination in Singapore.

Singapore is renowned for its abundance of malls, which are ubiquitous across the city-state. From luxurious, high-end shopping centers to more budget-friendly options, Singapore offers a mall for every taste and budget. These malls are not just places to shop; they are cultural hubs, offering a plethora of dining options, entertainment facilities, and even cultural experiences. Subway stations often are in the basement of huge malls, so you end up going from one mall to the next!

Some tips about traveling in Singapore:

As I said, Singapore is very expensive, so make sure you budget accordingly. The hotel rooms are pretty small too, and we had a hard time finding a place that would work for us with a toddler.
You can pay almost everywhere with a card, except in some hawker stations, where they serve street food.
Singapore’s weather is much like Malaysia, so it is always hot and humid, and often rains in the afternoons.
Like Malaysia, they drive on the left side, and use the UK-type power outlets, so do bring an adaptor.

With that, we ended our short visit to Malaysia and Singapore, and we headed to Indonesia, where we will hopefully spend a great amount of time!

FAQ

What would have happened if Malaysia and Singapore had not separated?

This is a difficult what-if question! Lee Kuan Yew believed that the separation of Singapore from Malaysia in 1965 was necessary for Singapore’s survival and development. He saw it as a painful but unavoidable decision, given the deep political and ethnic divisions within Malaysia at the time. In his view, Singapore’s different economic and social priorities required a separate path from Malaysia’s, and he believed that this separation would ultimately benefit both countries by allowing each to focus on its own development without the constraints of the other. Both countries ended up pretty well, maybe Singapore much more so. So maybe he was right!

If Singapore, China and Vietnam all have done so well with authoritarian regimes, what does that say about democracy?

The success of Singapore, China, and Vietnam under authoritarian regimes does raise questions about the effectiveness of democracy in certain contexts. Lee Kuan Yew believed that Singapore’s brand of authoritarianism, which emphasized meritocracy, stability, and economic development, was essential for the country’s success, especially given its small size and diverse population.

Lee Kuan Yew acknowledged the benefits of democracy but also believed that in some societies, a strong, centralized government was necessary to maintain order and drive development. He argued that Singapore’s model of authoritarianism was not suited for every country and that each nation should find its own path based on its unique circumstances.

How many countries have you visited so far in this trip?

We’ve been traveling for more than 6 months now, and so far we have visited Germany, France, Luxembourg, Greece, Iran, Thailand, Vietnam, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Cambodia, Malaysia, Singapore, and we are in Indonesia right now. So a total of 13!

What have you added to your travel gear since the start of the trip?

We’ve been expanding our collection of toys and kitchen items for our son, along with some new clothes. Like many toddlers, he’s a picky eater, so we try to make his favorite foods often. We even got a handheld mixer and a pan specifically for making pancakes for him! Our collection has grown so much that we had to upgrade from a small to a medium check-in luggage. When traveling long-term, comfort is key, especially with kids.