Our major travel destination in this round-the-world journey is Southeast Asia, and we started it off by visiting Thailand. This is our first time in this region of the world and we are super excited for our time here.

Bangkok

We took a direct overnight flight from Tehran to Bangkok on Mahan Airline, and arrived in the morning in BKK airport. There is a special feeling when you arrive in a totally new place for the first time. Everything feels new, including the air. This is especially true in Bangkok, as the first thing you notice when you get off the plane is the temperature and humidity. It’s stifling, compressing around you like a wet shirt. Actually, that is your shirt, drenched with sweat almost instantly from the intense heat!

When you arrive at BKK, the first thing to do after passing immigration and waiting for your luggage is to withdraw cash from an ATM. Cash is king in Thailand, and most places only accept cash. You can also grab a SIM card right there in the same hall. Be sure to check different providers as there are several available, with different pricing and features. Instead, we opted for esims from Airalo, which suited our needs. To reach your hotel or Airbnb, you can either take a taxi, though it can be costly, or use the metro to reach the city center. I’ll share more details about the Bangkok metro system later.

Some people don’t even bother with Bangkok and head directly to their next destination, but I would say that’s a miss. Bangkok certainly has a lot to offer, despite being a large and crowded city. You can certainly spend 4 days there, and even then miss some great spots. We chose to stay 4 full days there, but we could have easily used a few more days.

Bangkok is a tale of two cities: On one side, you’ll encounter the glitz of luxury malls and towering skyscrapers, defining the city’s contemporary skyline. Meanwhile, the other side reveals the city’s historical roots, characterized by quaint, smaller buildings that echo its rich past. This dynamic contrast offers visitors a unique journey through the diverse facets of Bangkok’s urban landscape. Most of what you see as a tourist is actually in the modern part, but there are some attractions that would take you to the older part. Notably, we visited “Paknam Phasi Charoen Temple” which is famous for its large seated Buddha. What’s striking about this specific Buddha statue is that it is set among smaller buildings, and it is way larger than all of them, which creates an interesting perspective. We also walked around the area a bit, and found many other smaller temples and Buddha statues on the other side of the river.

There are many temple complexes in Bangkok, but we only visited “Wat Pho” which houses a large reclining Buddha, along with many other temples, and “Wat Arun” with impressive tall towers. In old temples in Bangkok and later in Ayutthaya, we saw many Thai men and women dressing up to have their pictures taken. Apparently this is inspired by a hit soap opera called “Love Destiny”, which is a time travel drama happening in 17th century that has taken Thailand by a storm, due to its enticing screenplay, costumes and filming locations. Kind of reminds me of how people dress up as Hogwarts students to have their photos taken in various places in the UK!

Any visit to Bangkok is not complete without visiting its many night markets. We visited a few with the most notable one being the one in the Chinatown. Locals and tourists flock to dine at tables set up by street food vendors. Some places are so good they’ve earned Michelin stars, but you’ll see Michelin stickers everywhere, so do your research. The markets also showcase exotic foods like deep-fried insects, though they’re more for display than regular consumption. During our stay, we never came across a restaurant offering them on the menu. It seems insects are more of a specialty food tried occasionally by some adventurous folks.

Getting around Bangkok is best done using its metro system, complemented by river ferries and Grab (which is SE Asian equivalent of Uber) when needed. The metro, though efficient, has the drawback of two non-compatible ticketing systems, requiring a new ticket when switching companies. Unlike the seamless payment in the UK that works with Apple Pay or any contactless payment method, Bangkok’s system can be a bit cumbersome. Ferries offer a pleasant mode of transportation, providing a scenic route along the Chao Phraya River, perfect for relaxing with a napping child. However, be cautious with tuk-tuks; our experience involved a pre-agreed price that wasn’t honored. For hassle-free transportation, especially for short distances, I recommend relying on Grab instead of tuk-tuks and taxis.

Ayutthaya

Ayutthaya, a historic city just one hour north of Bangkok, is often visited on a day-trip, but we decided to stay for two nights for a more relaxed experience. We took the train from Hua Lamphong station, which turned out it only has old trains with 3rd class wagons. In the hindsight, I would have used the newer train station north of Bangkok. The upside was the incredibly low cost, just 50 cents per person (!), and the chance to interact with friendly locals. However, the downside was the lack of air conditioning, as the trains only had fans, many of which weren’t functional, making the journey quite sweaty. Additionally, there were no assigned seats, so during peak hours or seasons, standing the entire way was a possibility. Despite the loud and bumpy ride, it was an overall interesting experience.

Ayutthaya was the capital of its namesake kingdom which is considered the precursor of modern Thailand, for over 400 years until mid 18th century, when it was sacked and turned into ruin by Burmese in 1767. After that, the city never got back to its glory days, and shortly after, Bangkok became the capital of the newly formed Kingdom of Thailand (to this day). Ayutthaya was one of the most important cities of its time with a population of over a million people. The fall of Ayutthaya must have been a cataclysmic event for its inhabitants. Walking among the many ruins of Ayutthaya, I couldn’t stop thinking about that event, and how it must have transpired.

We had a blast exploring Ayutthaya over two days. The ruined temples, reminiscent of a mini Angkor Wat, were a highlight. We’re eyeing to visit Angkor Wat later in this trip. Ayutthaya was hotter and more humid than expected, making walking a challenge. Some temples provided umbrellas, which is a lifesaver. Despite its walkable appearance on the map, Ayutthaya’s old town is larger than it seems, and the heat made Grab rides a more comfortable choice, plus it’s affordable.

Krabi

No visit to Thailand is complete without visiting its beaches, of course. So after Ayutthaya, we got a flight from Don Muang Airport to Krabi with Air Asia. From there, we took a Grab to the coastal town of Ao Nang.

When planning the trip, I used an older guidebook which gave me the impression that Krabi and Ao Nang will be less touristy than more famous Phuket, so I was hoping to have a more genuine experience there, but it turned out that Ao Nang has recently exploded in popularity. So when we arrived in Ao Nang, we were a bit disappointed to basically see a town built for tourists. I don’t know about you, but I personally do not enjoy this as much.

In Ao Nang, we decided to go for the “4 island tour” using long-tail boats. We got picked up from our hotel early in the morning and boarded the long-tail boat to explore various islands. The islands were undoubtedly beautiful, featuring some amazing beaches. However, a common issue was the high number of tourists, turning even pristine beaches into crowded spots. The tour also included a snorkeling session at a specific location. Unfortunately, it turned out to be quite disappointing. The water was not clear, the variety of fish was unimpressive, and, most notably, everyone, myself included, got bitten by jellyfish.

Reflecting on my overall snorkeling experiences in Thailand, I must admit to being consistently disappointed. The waters lacked clarity, and the marine life, including both fish and coral, were bland. Despite Thailand’s reputation for excellent snorkeling and diving locations, my personal encounters left much to be desired. It makes me wonder if only specific islands hold the key to those amazing experiences.

Another tour we did while in Ao Nang was visiting an elephant sanctuary. Thailand is home to the majestic Asian elephant, which is deeply embedded in the country’s culture. Elephants have played a significant role throughout Thai history, from ancient warfare to logging and, more recently, tourism. However, the exploitation of these gentle giants raised ethical concerns, leading to efforts for conservation and responsible tourism. In some places in Thailand, you can find sanctuaries dedicated to providing a more ethical and humane environment for elephants, allowing visitors to interact with them in a respectful way. They explained to us that elephants constantly need to eat, and buy forcing them to give rides to tourists, the elephants have less time for eating. Mistreatment also results in not only hurting elephants, but also by making them angry, they can go crazy and damage everything around them. In the sanctuary, we got to feed the elephants, and wash them in a river. Our son, of course, loved the whole thing! This reminded me of my experience with elephants in Sri Lanka some 12 years ago, which was much more genuine, as it was no organized tour.

Most people use Ao Nang as a departure point for the most well-known Thai island, Koh Phi Phi, but given how crowded Ao Nang was, we quickly decided that Koh Phi Phi is not for us. Koh Phi Phi is on every top locations list of Thailand, but that’s exactly why we avoided it. Koh Phi Phi got famous due to Leonardo DiCaprio’s movie “The Beach” which came out in 2000, but since then, its fame has resulted in over-tourism. Instead, we opted to go the exact opposite of that: Koh Yao Yai.

Koh Yao Yai

Koh Yao Yai, literally meaning Big Yao Island, is nestled in the Andaman Sea between the more well-known Krabi and Phuket, and it offers a serene escape from the hustle of its more touristy neighbors. Its tranquil atmosphere and original charm make it a haven for those seeking a laid-back experience. Unlike its more developed counterparts, Koh Yao Yai maintains a rustic vibe with fewer crowds and untouched landscapes. The island’s predominantly Muslim population adds a unique cultural flavor to the experience, with friendly locals and a relaxed pace of life. If you appreciate authenticity and a quieter getaway, Koh Yao Yai is definitely worth a visit.

After a quick speedboat ride from Ao Nang, we arrived at the north part of the island, and a taxi/truck was waiting to take us to our accommodation. There is no Grab here, so it’s better sort your ride ahead. We stayed at Anissa’s Resort, which was more like a small hotel than a full-on resort. The owner, a super nice Thai lady who had lived 30 years in Germany, hooked us up with her tuk-tuk for about $10/day. Most people rent motorbikes here, but with a toddler, we wanted to be safer. There was a certain learning curve to driving it and felt dicey initially, but I got the hang of it. Without it, moving around the island would’ve been impossible (or a lot more expensive). Oh and this was my first time driving on the left side of the road. It definitely helped to have my wife with me, as she could give me warnings on not turning into the wrong lane!

We visited Ao Muong beach for three days in a row, as it was serene and beautiful, with only a handful of tourists around. This was our perfect place, as we enjoyed some time on the beach. I did some snorkeling there too, though it wasn’t the best. Driving around the island, we ran into a few problems with the tuk-tuk - got stuck in sand, the battery ran out, etc - but each time, the friendly locals came to the rescue.

Phuket

On our last day in Koh Yao Yai, we got a speed boat from a pier in southwest of the island to Phuket, which took only 30 minutes or so. Phuket is largest island in Thailand, and is renowned for its beaches and water activities. It even has an international airport, with connections to many countries around the world. For this reason, it is also the most visited island in Southern Thailand, and is packed with tourists.

Phuket is a pretty large island too, with lots of hills and mountains all over it, so getting around takes a lot of time. To make things worse, taxis and even Grab are unusually expensive in Phuket for some reason. We used Bolt which was much cheaper than Grab, but still more expensive than what you pay in other parts of Thailand. For these two reasons, it is important to properly decide where to stay in the island. Accommodation is also pretty expensive in Phuket, and we paid even more than Bangkok, for a lower quality place. Overall in Phuket, expect to spend quite a bit more than other parts of Thailand.

Most popular place - read the place to avoid - in Phuket is “Patong Beach”. Patong Beach was like Ao Nang on steroid: It is teeming with tourists, and there are malls, night markets, numerous hotels and resorts, and of course, a large stretch of golden beach with umbrellas and water activities. If that is your thing, stay there, and you have everything around you. Otherwise, run away! We stayed in Kata Beach, which was a smaller area, still pretty tourist-oriented, but a lot less chaotic. I’ve heard Kamala Beach is also a good place to stay, but we didn’t find a place there. There is also Phuket Town which is on the east of the island. It is certainly worth a visit with its colonial architecture. We combined that with a visit to the Big Buddha atop a mountain, but we learned the hard way that coming down wasn’t easy, as no Bolt driver would pick us up there. If you go there, make sure to secure the trip back.

The last day before taking our flight to our next destination, Ho Chi Minh City, we went to a beach right behind the airport to see planes landing right over our heads. This small detour was surely worth it, and our son loved it even more than us! We left our luggage with a hotel nearby, and spent half an hour or so on the beach, and then took another Bolt to the airport.

To be honest, if I planned our visit again, I would skip Phuket altogether: It’s super touristy, it is too big, you need a car or bike to go around, it’s expensive, and doesn’t really have any outstanding natural or historical feature. Instead, I would use the time to visit more secluded beaches and islands.

Random observations about Thailand

When you go somewhere for the first time, many things stand out as new, interesting, or right out strange. Here are a collection of some of the things that caught my eyes.

Thai people are super friendly, especially towards little ones. Always smiling, they love playing with kids whenever the opportunity arises.
Food is of course amazing in Thailand. Lots of different kinds of stews, noodles and soups are available. Pad Thai, which is the national dish of Thailand, is of course a staple. My favorite dish in this trip was a soup called tom yum that has bold and spicy flavors. It typically includes ingredients like lemongrass, lime leaves, chili peppers, and shrimp or other proteins, creating a delicious and aromatic broth. Highly recommend it! Thais are so serious about their food that their government actually has a program of “culinary diplomacy”, where it promotes its culture and builds international relations through its diverse and flavorful cuisine. That’s one reason why you find Thai food pretty much everywhere. That’s the best kind of diplomacy!
Monks have priority in buses, trains, and subways. There are signs to remind you about that.
Thailand is a constitutional monarchy, but unlike many others, you see a lot of monarchy pictures all over. It also has the so-called “lèse-majesté law” which makes it illegal to criticize and insult the monarchy.
In Thailand, you often see miniature pagodas called spirit houses outside the building. These miniature shrines, often adorned with intricate details, serve as homes for guardian spirits. Placed outside homes, businesses, or public spaces, they symbolize respect for the spirits of the land. Thai people make offerings like food, flowers, and incense to maintain harmony with these spirits. It’s a blend of animism and Buddhism, showcasing the deep cultural and spiritual connection embedded in Thai society.
7-Eleven is a great place to find everything with great prices, though their selection is limited. Make sure to make advantage of it while in Thailand. Pharmacies on the other hand were typically quite a bit more expensive.
According to one of our Grab drivers, Thailand has two seasons: hot and hotter. You can also say it has dry and wet seasons. It’s basically always hot and humid here, and you never stop sweating unless you are inside and have A/C.
Since Thailand is close to the equator in the northern hemisphere, the moon crescent looks like an upright U, instead of a slanted U. The first time we saw this, we were like huh? But it only makes sense.
Unlike other Asian countries, Thai people eat with fork and spoon!
We had a hard time finding public trash cans everywhere in Thailand, which was a bit frustrating. Not sure why that is the case.

FAQ

How is traveling with a toddler in Thailand?

Our son is now three months short of three years old, and things are quite a bit different than the last time we traveled in Europe. He is quite a pro traveler, and he specifically loves airports and air travel, so we have an easy time flying with him, which is fantastic. We also co-sleep during the trip, as it is difficult to secure a bed for him. It’s not the best, but what can you do.

One big challenge is food, as our son is a pretty picky eater. We always had to find him some specific noodle or rice dishes, and if we couldn’t, pizza never disappointed. Also thankfully, we never had any issues with food safety.

Thailand was the first trip with our son without a stroller, which we left back in Iran. If you look around internet, most people recommend against bringing stroller to this part of the world, and I can see why. However, I think they exaggerate it a bit, and you still see many people rocking strollers in Thailand. We were okay not having one though, as our son is old enough that he can walk around more easily. He sometimes got tired and wanted to be carried, but that didn’t happen too often. But if he was younger, I would not hesitate to bring a stroller to Thailand. You have to leave it at the hotel when going to the beach, but that’s of course is a given.

How much does it cost to travel in Thailand?

Thailand is famous for being an affordable destination. It is certainly more affordable than say Europe, and we spent on average $140 per day for a family of three, excluding the flight to and out of Thailand. In Europe, we spent like $240 per day on average, in our last Euro trip. Keep in mind that you can spend less or more than this, if you level up or down your accommodations, where you eat, and how you travel around.