Our final European destination was Greece, which we were visiting for the first time. We took a flight from Hamburg to Chania in Crete on a budget airline called Marabu. The flight was decent, but we had to pay for even a bottle of water! From the chilly and rainy Hamburg, we arrived in the warm and sunny Crete. Quite a change!

Crete

Crete is the largest island in Greece, and we spent a week there, staying in Chania and Heraklion. Chania is a small and charming town in Crete with a great blend of lovely beaches and a captivating old town. Greece is renowned for its stunning beaches, and Chania doesn’t disappoint, even though it’s not the typical white-sand blue-water scene. We spent many days exploring colorful and narrow streets, marveling at old buildings, and savoring the Greek and Cretan cuisine. Chania is like stepping into a postcard with its blend of history, natural beauty, and that laid-back, awesome vibe that makes Crete so special!

We spent a few days lounging on the beach, allowing our son to play freely in the sand. The Cretans, like most Greeks, were quite warm and hospitable, engaging us in conversations about our son and showing affection towards him. Apart from one case I’ll mention later, people were pretty friendly. Crete was also home to numerous cats, and the locals treated them kindly. However, we had to contend with a species of ninja mosquitoes that could not be heard - let alone be swatted - no matter how much we tried. They managed to bite us a lot, even on our faces. I certainly don’t miss them!

After a few days in Chania, we took a bus to Heraklion to spend our last couple of nights in Crete, before taking a ferry to Santorini. Unfortunately, our bus ride there wasn’t pleasant due to unhelpful station employees and a rude ticket collector. We had similar experiences on other Greek buses, making us wonder if it’s common or just bad luck.

Heraklion, the largest city in Crete, is famous for the Knossos Palace ruins, a testament to the ancient Minoan civilization from 1900 BCE. This archaeological gem served as the hub of Minoan politics, culture, and economy. Despite not much being known about Minoans’ culture and history, Sir Arthur Evans in the early 20th century envisioned its past through extensive and often expansive restorations, including concrete work and personal interpretations of the palace’s functions and designs. Thus the palace feels a bit fake, when you know this back-history. Nevertheless, it was interesting to see how a civilization some 1500 years before Athen’s rise reached such heights of sophistication.

The food in Crete was overall amazing, but we had the most sumptuous food at a restaurant in Heraklion called Apiri Greek Eatery. I’m usually not a fan of seafood, especially specialties like octopus, but the grilled octopus there was incredibly delicious. We also tried a couple of other outstanding dishes. Sometimes, the food in a good restaurant can surpass even homemade dishes, no matter how great your mom is at cooking. Some chefs have a unique talent for combining ingredients, herbs, and spices to create distinct and delightful flavors. It’s truly an art form – the most delicious kind of art, for sure!

Santorini

We boarded an early morning fast ferry from Heraklion Port. The two-hour ride was quite bumpy, but fortunately, Dramamine made it manageable. Arriving in Santorini by ferry, I was initially puzzled by what appeared to be snow-capped mountain ridges. It didn’t add up until I realized those were actually charming white towns and villages perched atop the mountain ridges!

Santorini’s unique landscape is a result of ancient volcanic activity. A colossal eruption 3,600 years ago caused the island’s center to collapse, forming a caldera. Picture Mt. Saint Helens, but in the sea, and much larger. The eruption was so massive that there are accounts of darkened skies in China for a whole year due to ash in the atmosphere. This event created a broken ring-shaped island chain - today’s Santorini islands - with a large crescent island where most of the population is. The volcano remains highly active, giving rise to a large island within the caldera. Fun fact: Some scholars speculate that this eruption, and its aftermath was the cause of the collapse of the Minoan civilization in Greece.

Arriving at the port, we were greeted by our transport, which we had set up through the hotel, and they took us up on steep mountain roads, and then along the ridge to Firastefani, where we stayed. We checked in, and were taken to our room, and our breath was taken away by the view (the photo above). This view was certainly the one to remember! We had 180 degree unobstructed view of caldera, with white-washed houses to our sides, and the pool below us. Hands down the best view we’ve ever had in any hotel! I’m sure we would have had to pay quite a lot more during the peak months for the same room.

Santorini is super popular among honeymooners and Instagrammers. During our visit in mid-October, the island was already bustling with tourists. It made me wonder how crowded and expensive it must be in the peak months of July and August. Besides the crowds, high season also means soaring temperatures with the Mediterranean sun at its hottest. If you plan to visit Santorini, I highly suggest to skip the peak months of summer and opt for the shoulder season for a more enjoyable experience.

There is no doubt that Santorini is a hotspot for photography. I always tend to find good photo spots beforehand, but a quick search showed all those blogs on most “instagrammable” places in Santorini, and that was just a big turn-off for me. Instead, I chose to explore freely and capture whatever caught my eye. I got pretty much all the shots I wanted though. When you get to those instagrammable locations, your cue is a long queue for taking selfies! The other thing that we saw a lot was hired photographers taking photos of girls wearing long shiny dresses (mostly blue or red), and an assistant holding and moving the long tail to make the impression of wind blowing through the dresses. The photos may look cool and glamorous, but they are overly cheesy.

Santorini isn’t very kid-friendly due to limited relevant activities and numerous stairs everywhere. Our son got tired a few times, and we had to carry him on steep staircases. While it’s ideal for honeymooners, bringing a stroller for small kids might create more trouble than convenience. The beaches are also not so easily accessible.

Finally, Santorini is host to several cruise ships on any given day. Even in mid-October, we could see 3-4 cruise ships waiting in the sea. There are so many things wrong with cruise ships, but what bothered me most during these few days was that the ships engines were constantly running, so much so that one day the pollution was coming our way. I checked it up, and cruises have probably the highest carbon footprint compared to other modes of leisure travel - something like 300-500 kg of carbon per day per passenger. It’s ridiculous. I already had a disdain for cruise ships, and this fact made it ever less likely that I hop on a cruise - except for an Antarctica cruise, which is on my bucket list!

Athens

I had been passionate about Ancient Greece since childhood, so visiting Greece was a dream come true. Athens, with its ancient ruins, chief among them the Acropolis, epitomizes Greece for many. The city’s profound influence on human history, particularly on Western civilization, is awe-inspiring. The Greeks pioneered democracy, mathematics, philosophy, medicine, and more. Their intricate mythology continues to captivate us, leaving a lasting impact on our culture and symbolisms (e.g. Achille’s heel, Trojan Horse, Oedipus complex, narcissism, etc).

But how did the Greeks end up having such a big impact on the world? My hypothesis is it mostly happened through schools, and education, especially through Romans, and later on the Muslim world. Romans admired Ancient Greece for its art, philosophy, and culture. They would even send their kids to study in Athens, and some of the Roman emperors were ardent Grecophiles (like Hadrian). They often saw Greece as a source of intellectual and artistic inspiration, so much so that many of the so-called Greek statues remained today are Roman replicas of the original Greek statues. Later on, Muslim scholars greatly admired Ancient Greece for its contributions to various fields such as philosophy, mathematics, astronomy, and medicine. During the Islamic Golden Age (8th to 14th century), Muslim scholars translated Greek texts into Arabic, preserving and expanding upon the knowledge of the ancient Greeks. Later on, the Western scholars translated many of the Greek texts from Arabic into Latin and other European languages.

Ancient Greece’s most renowned period occurred between the end of the Persian Wars and Alexander the Great’s conquest (around 150 years or so). Western scholars focus mostly on this era, although it often marks the end of Greece’s discussion in history books. Greece’s decline resulted from internal conflicts among its separate city-states, like Athens and Sparta. Following this period, Greece became part of various empires, including the Romans and Ottomans for over two millennia, until regaining independence in the early 19th century.

Enough about the backstory of Athens and Greece, and back to our visit! We got to Athens on a short flight - 30 minutes or so - from Santorini. We got a taxi to our airbnb, but what we got charged way higher than what was posted as usual cost in the airport. As tourist, you gotta accept that sometimes you get ripped off, and sometimes you think you get ripped off, but you’re wrong, and at times it’s not easy to tell them apart. I try my best to not get ripped off, or scammed, but also I have come to terms with the reality of it happening from time to time. At home, you rarely get ripped off, or scammed, because you have the local knowledge, but when you travel, you have to accept that you are exposed to the elements!

In Athens, we got the Athen’s combo ticket that allowed us to visit 7 sites with just one ticket. We visited most of the sites, but the ones I highly recommend visiting are of course the Acropolis, and the Ancient Agora. I got the Rick Steve’s audio guide app that had (free) audio tours of these locations, and it was super helpful. The ancient Agora in Athens was a central gathering place and marketplace in ancient Greece. It served as the political, social, and commercial hub of the city-state. People congregated there to discuss various topics, engage in philosophical debates, and participate in democratic processes. The Agora was also home to important buildings like the Stoa of Attalos, where merchants sold their goods, and the Bouleuterion, where the city council met. It played a significant role in the cultural and political life of Athens, making it one of the most important archaeological sites in Greece today.

The Acropolis is the most famous site in Greece, and one of the most recognized locations in the world. The Acropolis is an ancient citadel located on a rocky outcrop above Athens. It is renowned for its historical and architectural significance, serving as a symbol of ancient Greek civilization. The most famous structure on the Acropolis is the Parthenon, a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena, the patroness of the city of Athens. As you can imagine, the Acropolis gets highly crowded, especially between 10 AM and late afternoon. I’ve seen videos of how crowded it is during the high season, and I certainly do not want to visit it during that period! We opted to visit it in late afternoon, and it was still pretty crowded, but not overwhelmingly so. Parthenon is certainly the most amazing Greek temple you can find today, though it is mostly in ruins. Fun fact: Temple of Zeus, which is located in Athens, was an even larger temple back in its heyday, but today there are only a few standing columns left. Parthenon has a fascinating history, which I do not want to get to here, but I highly suggest studying it before the visit, as it enhances your appreciation of this iconic site. We also visited the Archeological Museum of Greece, and the Acropolis Museum, and they were both worth a visit.

Walking around the old part of Athens is also quite an experience. There are many shops lining the sides of the alleys, and there are quite a few old Byzantine churches in the midst of new buildings. Byzantine churches differ significantly from their Catholic counterparts in several aspects. One prominent distinction lies in their size; Byzantine churches are generally smaller compared to Catholic Churches. Additionally, Byzantine churches are adorned with many Byzantine-style paintings, which contribute to their unique aesthetic.

Lastly, Athens is not the most stroller-friendly city in Europe, though I still recommend bringing one. The pedestrian walkways are often uneven, with no ramps, and some historical sites might have limited accessibility. If you are with a baby/toddler, bring a stroller, but be prepared for some challenges while navigating the city.

This was the end of our visit to Greece. It was our first time in Greece, and we will certainly return! Next time, I would probably focus on some other Greek islands, sites like Olympia and Delphi, and the Peloponnese which is rich in history, and has amazing beaches. But for now, our next destination is Iran, visiting family for a prolonged period of time, and maybe (hopefully) doing some travels inside Iran. Stay tuned!

Prologue

We had an amazing time visiting Germany, France, Luxembourg, and Greece in this trip. We met with friends and family, and enjoyed having great food, visiting beaches, picturesque places, and ancient sites. But at the same time, we came to know that our family in Iran faced challenges with two immediate members battling cancer. Thankfully, they’re fine now, but it was a worrying time for us. Each day mixed amazing travel experiences with concern for our loved ones. Our travel planning was affected, often planning on the go as we considered shortening the trip. In the end, we did cut it short, but we were grateful to see them back home, in better conditions. This experience reminded us to seize the day and not postpone our wishes. We’re aware of how fortunate we are being in good health and able to travel - something we can’t take for granted.

On a more fun note, before going to Greece, I suggest brushing up on your math books, as that knowledge comes handy in reading Greek! When you know how to read each letter, it actually becomes pretty easy to understand some words in Greek. But you rarely need that, as in most places, everything is written in both Greek and English.