Kinniya is totally off the map for all tourists. During my stay there, I didn’t spot a single tourist. There is a good reason for that. There is nothing there! It’s a small town beside a lagoon that can only be used for fishing and not for bathing and swimming. So why did I go there? Because I met these very friendly people, especially an English teacher called Munawwar. When I told him that I wanted to see village life, he said he could help me with that. That was enough for me to forget the beach and go to Kinniya!

During my two-day stay in Kinniya, I spent a lot of time in the company of Munawwar. He invited me for lunch and dinner, and accompanied me to all villages, and as everyone knew him, he opened a lot of doors for me. We talked and discussed so many diverse topics. His excellent command of English, and his interest in medicine, politics, world culture, and even in photography guaranteed that we could have a hurdle-free conversation for hours and hours. He told me that he wanted to study medicine or pharmacology, but due to the bitter civil conflict that affected his hometown, Kinniya, he did not manage to. Instead, he studied English on his own, and became an English teacher.

In the town, I soon became a major “local” attraction! Wherever I went, eyes were rolling on me, and with the turn of my head, they would smile and greet me. It was a funny experience by itself; it was like being a local celebrity! Everyone wanted to have a word with me, and so many people invited me to their houses and shops that I can’t remember! It was absolutely amazing! People were so friendly and so eager to help that I hadn’t seen before.

Munawwar’s sister-in-law, for instance, washed my clothes manually without expecting anything (Munawwar had told me they had a washing machine, but for some reason she had to do it by hand). I was so embarrassed that I didn’t know how to thank her. I offered her a print of a photo of her family. That was the least I could do. Munawwar’s wife, whose name was Parvin, a Persian name, also invited me twice for lunch and dinner. She was an excellent cook and made delicious curries for me! I again embarrassedly offered her and Munawwar a print of their photo. Good thing that I brought this instant printer, a Polaroid Zink. I can at least offer something to the people that do me a favor. Next time I travel, I’ll bring some special gifts to offer to the people that are so kind to me!

I had told Munawwar that I liked to visit a few villages around, and he advised me to rent a rickshaw. He also said that he would come along to show me around. I said that I didn’t want to trouble him, and I could go alone, but he insisted that it was a pleasure for him. So he arranged a rickshaw, a friend of his, for only 500 rupees plus the fuel for the whole day. This was an amazingly good price. I could never have found a rickshaw with this price myself! I eventually gave him a good tip to compensate.

The next morning, we headed towards the villages. Everywhere I saw an interesting face, posture, or job, we stopped and I took photos! Munawwar would explain to them why I was taking their photos, and tell them a biography of mine in a nutshell (including my marital status!), and I would take their photos. Almost everyone was okay with their photo being taken. Photographically, it was a blast! I was really happy with some of the shots I took.

The next day, I left Kinniya for Kandy. However, I got off midway to stay a night in Habarana to photograph some elephants.

Apart from the great photos that I took in Kinniya, what stays with me is the warmth and kindness of the people in Kinniya, and more than that, the genuine and unpretentious friendship of Munawwar! This is the most priceless souvenir I take back with me from Sri Lanka!

Side Notes:

  • I would say a people photographer should always bring a portable printer like the Polaroid Zink with them while traveling. You should see the faces of people when they see their photos printed and given to them! It is priceless!

  • Munawwar told me that the Sri Lankan Muslims are very grateful to the Sinhalese soldiers who sacrificed their lives to end that bloody conflict. I was very glad to hear that there is such appreciation and understanding going on in Sri Lankan society.