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My first stop in Tamil Nadu was Madurai, one of the oldest cities in India and home to one of the most important temples in South India, Sri Meenakshi Temple. As usual, I took the bus from Munnar to Madurai. Midway, the bus stopped for lunch in the middle of nowhere. I was quite hungry, so I went into the only “restaurant” there, a roadside eatery. When I sat down, the server placed a banana leaf and a glass of hot water in front of me. Not knowing what to do, I watched someone at another table demonstrate: open the banana leaf, wash the inner side with water, and use it as a plate. Afterward, rice, dhal, and vegetable stews were served on my “plate.” The meal was delicious, and I even had seconds—all for just 35 rupees (around $0.70)!

Upon arriving in Madurai, I faced some difficulty finding a room since most hotels were full or overpriced. Eventually, I secured a modest room at a reasonable price. Too tired and hungry to visit the temple, I explored the city and found a pure vegetarian restaurant. I enjoyed a delicious two-course dinner: Idli with chutney and Masala Dosa.

Visiting the Sri Meenakshi Temple

The next morning, I visited the Sri Meenakshi Temple, a masterpiece of South Indian architecture. Temples in South India differ significantly from those in the North, playing a central role in daily life. South Indian temples are vibrant hubs of activity, hosting rituals, music, dance, and festivals. Every day, gods (statues) are ceremoniously woken, fed, and put to rest, with offerings and monetary contributions being a regular part of the rituals. Some South Indian temples rank among the wealthiest religious institutions in the world.

Sri Meenakshi Temple is a sprawling complex with 12 Gopurams (gateway towers), over 33,000 statues, and intricate carvings. The tallest Gopuram rises 52 meters high, adorned with colorful depictions of gods, demons, and heroes. Inside the complex, thousands of pillars showcase elaborate carvings.

While much of the temple is open to visitors, certain areas are restricted to Hindus. Unintentionally, I followed a crowd into one of these areas, the Shiva Temple, and blended in by mimicking the rituals. To my surprise, the guards didn’t notice I wasn’t Indian! The inner sanctum was breathtaking, with gold, silver, and bronze statues. Later, I devised a “disguise” by leaving my camera bag at the hotel, applying a red mark on my forehead, and mimicking the Shivite markings of Shiva devotees. This worked wonders, allowing me to explore freely. Locals even spoke Tamil to me, assuming I was one of them!

Onward to Trichy

The next day, I traveled to Trichy. For the first time in India, I encountered proper highways, although the bus never exceeded 80 km/h. Finding accommodation was challenging again due to auspicious weddings filling the city’s hotels.

Side Notes

  • Finding Wi-Fi here is difficult; I had to hunt around shops and hotels.
  • Tamil cinema seems to favor chubby men with mustaches as heroes.
  • Women in the South appear socially stronger than their northern counterparts, perhaps reflecting the Dravidian matriarchal legacy. For example, southern women do not veil their faces and confidently ask men to give up seats on buses.