I flew into Cochin, Kerala, from Tehran via Doha. The trip was quite tiresome, as there was an 8-hour waiting time between the two flights, and I arrived at 3:30 AM in Cochin airport. Initially, I planned to spend a day in Cochin to rest, but I decided to go directly to Alleppey to visit the backwaters.

When leaving the airport, I expected to encounter a swarm of taxi/rickshaw drivers like elsewhere in India. To my surprise, not a single one approached me. I thought I had successfully disguised myself as an Indian, but it turned out there were only pre-paid taxis available. I took one to the central bus station in Cochin to catch a local bus to Alleppey. The road between the airport and the city was surprisingly good, especially compared to the north and west of India, which I visited last year. My first experience in the South was quite different from what I expected!

I arrived in Alleppey around 8 AM. Tired and sleepy, I needed to find a room. Without a prior booking, I had to search around until a local guy kindly took me to a nice guesthouse on his bike. After settling in, I ventured out for breakfast at a local eatery.

The Keralan Breakfast

The breakfast consisted of a rice-based bread topped with a mix of onions, spices, and egg. But here’s the catch: it was extremely spicy! It felt like breathing fire—my lips swollen, my nose running, and my eyes watering. Even hours later, my stomach burned. For the locals, this was just “a little spicy.” Tea or water didn’t help quench the fire, either.

The Backwaters

Alleppey is renowned for its backwaters—a network of water canals and lakes, reminiscent of Venice but on a larger scale. The reclaimed land is used for paddy fields, and houses are built along the canals. People bathe, wash clothes and dishes, and play in the water, which is also a primary mode of transport. The beauty and tranquility of the backwaters attract many tourists, both foreign and Indian. Locals have capitalized on this by converting their boats into houseboats for overnight stays, though the sheer number of houseboats harms the environment.

During my stay, I explored the backwaters using both Shikaras (private boats) and government boats. Government boats are more affordable and cover most areas. The boat rides were relaxing and full of beautiful sights, passing close to where people live. I also walked along the canals, where possible, and took photos.

My next destination was Kumily.

Side Notes:

Traditional Attire: Men wear long loincloths in different styles around their waists, while women adorn their sleek hair with strings of white flowers.
Hotel Booking: This time, I avoided reserving hotels in advance. Using guidebooks like Lonely Planet and Rough Guide, I found that suggested hotels were pricier than the competition.
Mosquito Precautions: I applied insect repellent and ensured all doors and openings were closed while sleeping. Despite my efforts, a mosquito bite left my foot swollen and painful.
Kerala’s Communist Influence: Kerala is a communist state, with pictures of Stalin, Lenin, and Che Guevara everywhere. The local government seems effective, with literacy rates nearing 100%!